Thursday, January 14, 2010

Italian Wine Pronto! A Wine Shopper’s Cheat Sheet


In France, it is hard to determine where your favorite grapes are grown. However, in Italy you have a whole new challenge to determine which grapes are your favorites. Italy has over 1,000 indigenous grape varieties that are not widely known. So instead of asking, “Where do they grow Chardonnay?” you are left asking, “Which one of these crazy grapes is most similar to Chardonnay?” But there in lies the beauty. Italy presents a whole new array of different grapes to fall in love with, so just when you think you’ve tried them all head to Italy for an endless source of options.

There is a wonderful world of Italian wines, whites and reds, which goes far beyond Pinot Grigio. However with so many lesser-known grapes, many people have not had access to the enormous variety that Italy has to offer. There are so many amazing wines from Italy with which people are not familiar. With so many indigenous grapes, as well as a huge variation in climate from the far north down to the toe of the boot, Italians produce wines ranging widely in style, flavor and function. From the perfect white for a seafood lunch in the sun to a huge red wine for a ski vacation, Italy has it all…now it is just a matter of finding it.

Like France and Spain (also known as the Old World), Italy labels its wines by region rather than grapes. However, the grapes wouldn’t be that much more helpful since many people have not heard of most of them. In this case, the regions are more recognizable. For that reason, I have listed the wines below by region, noted the grapes used and finally tried to compare the wines to our major grape varieties.


Must Try Italian Reds


Chianti: As you may already know, Chianti is the wine region located in Tuscany. Chianti wines are produced from primarily Sangiovese. In body, Chianti is comparable to a Merlot, not as full as Cab or as light as Pinot Noir. But it flavors characteristics are unique. This Italian grape produces red wines with strong flavors of sour and black cherry and high levels of acidity. Chianti typically has a dry, earthy finish as well. The high acidity in Chianti makes it a perfect pair for any tomato-based sauce (as tomatoes are high acid). So grab a bottle and enjoy for your next pasta night!

Brunello Di Montalcino: Within Tuscany is a small, beautiful town named Montalcino that is famous for making Brunello. Brunello di Montalcino is made of a specific clone of Sangiovese called Sangiovese Grosso. This wine shows Sangiovese at its best, with slightly more body than most Chiantis and richer fruit flavors.

Barolo: Barolo is a high-end Italian wine made in the town of Barolo in the Piemonte region in Northwestern Italy made with the Nebbiolo grape. This is considered by many to be the finest Italian wine out there. In body, this wine is as big as they come, like a very full-bodied Cab or Shiraz. It also has high acidity and alcohol to match. It flavors range from strawberry to floral notes of roses or violets, to more earthy flavors of mushrooms and leather (if you don’t believe me just smell it!) This is an impeccable choice for a top notch winter dinner with lamb, venison or anything particularly gamey.

Barbaresco: If Barolo is the king of Italy, than Barbaresco (also made from Nebbiolo) is the queen. Made in a town just east of Barolo (also in Piemonte), this wine is similar to Barolo but slightly lighter and tamer. It is often a bit more affordable than Barolo, as well so it can be a nice alternative.

Amarone: Amarone is made in the region of Valpolicella in Northeastern Italy, just North of Verona. This wine is made from a number of grapes but is primarily made with Corvina. However, it is not the grapes but rather the production method that make this wine special. After the grape are harvested, they allow them to partially dry out. Traditionally, it is said that they laid them out on straw mats in the attic to dry them out. Now far more high-tech methods are used but the results are same. This process allows the sugar levels to rise in the grapes, leaving strong dried fruit flavors such as figs, prunes and raisins after fermentation. The process of fermenting out all the sugars also creates a high alcohol wine. The biggest Amarone can almost taste like a drier version of Port. This is another great option for lamb or any big red or gamey meat.

Brunello, Barolo, Barbareso and Amarone can all benefit from bottle ageing so these can be good investments if you are interested in cellaring.


Must Try Italians Whites


Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige: Finally, a wine we recognize! While Pinot Grigio is produced in bulk all over the country, the top area for this grape is found to the far North in the mountain area of Alto Adige, bordering Switzerland. The Pinot Grigio found here has more body (heavier in your mouth) than the rest of the country, as well as a wider variety of citrus flavors. So if you are a regular Pinot Grigio drinker, think about something from Alto Adige for your next special occasion.

Gavi: The most famous Italian still white comes from the small town of Gavi in the Piemonte region. This wine is known for being exceptionally dry (drier than Pinot Grigio) with great acidity. It is an all time favorite for seafood, chicken or lighter (and not red) pasta dishes. So next time you are looking for the perfect dry white to share with some friends, resist the Pinot Grigio, and try reaching for a Gavi instead. You will not be disappointed!


Must Try Italian Values


Orvieto: Having a wet lunch by the pool? (I wish…) Orvieto is a light white wine, with slight citrus fruit and melon flavors, which compliments salads with chicken or fish. Using a blend of unheard of grapes, this wine from Umbria was made for lunches in the sun. This wine usually retails around $10, making buying a bottle the responsible thing to do!

Barbera D’Asti: From the town of Asti in Piemonte, this wine is made right next door to the much pricier Barolo but for far less money! However, it is important to clarify that this wine is made from the Barbera grape rather then Nebbiolo (the grape of Barolo). With great acidity and red fruit, this wine shows classic Italian wine characteristic without the price. This is a perfect pizza wine!

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo: Let’s not leave Southern Italy out of the fun. Montepulciano is a grape widely planted in Abruzzo, a region on the east coast a bit more than half way down the boot. This grape produces easy drinking reds with slightly less acidity than those of the North. As a cocktail wine, or a partner for a lighter meal, this is a very satisfying and affordable option.


While this may seem like a lot of information, I am actually just scratching the surface of Italian wines. Short of a jumping on a plane, there is really no way to master Italian wines other than trial and error. Hopefully, this article can provide a jumping off point but from there just get lost in the Italian section and see what you come out with!

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